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Suggestions time...Hugh
2008-11-22 16:13:00 UTC

So, for once I have a question rather than an answer here on KKCook, and I know we have some Seriously Knowledgable readers.

I’m currently trying to improve my cookery knowledge, and I’m looking for stuff that can seriously improve my skills and my understanding – hardcore French cooking, theory, techniques and skills, and so on.

The only thing is that I really don’t much like books that are just a list of recipes – I don’t get a lot out of them.

So far, I’ve been recommended James Peterson’s Sauces and Shirley O. Corriher’s “Bakewise” and “Cookwise”, and I love (of course) “On Food And Cooking”, “Don’t Sweat The Aubergine”, and just about anything with the words “Heston” and “Blumenthal” on the cover.

So, what Serious Cookbooks would you lot recommend that are more discussions of food, building a meal or a menu, techniques and so on, rather than just pretty picture → recipe with no discussion → pretty picture → recipe?


Comments

Marveen | 2008-11-22 16:34:23 UTC

I love the Cook’s Illustrated series, where they explain all the variations of the recipe and what each ingredient does—thus enabling you to shape your own recipes by something more than trial and error.

Hakuo0000 | 2008-11-23 02:39:04 UTC

Not that I’ve bought the books yet, teh economy failz, but I’d be willing to bet that any of Alton’s (Brown that is) cooking books are filled with knowledge, science, and other random information. W00t.

Paul | 2008-11-23 03:50:23 UTC

A mostly Yankee list:

The Way to Cook, Julia Child
The Complete Robuchon, Joel Robuchon
The Complete Technique, Jacques Pepin
The French Laundry Cookbook, Thomas Kellar
Bouchon, Thomas Kellar

Josh Barratt | 2008-11-23 04:44:01 UTC

I enjoy and often go back to:
John Ash, Cooking one on one.
It focuses a lot on techniques and just uses the recipes as a “for example,…” Introduced me to the idea of partially drying ingredients in the oven, to transform texture and intensify flavor, which is a wonderful trick.

Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, “Culinary Artistry.”
Has fantastic tables of known food pairings and seasonal food — a lot of menu/recipe creation ideas.

Eric Gower’s “Breakaway” books. Recipes, yeah, but shorthand flavor “bricks” from multiple cultures. In the Japanese book, lots of great introductions to things like Umeboshi and Shiso, great flavors I normally would have never touched.

Seconding the votes for the Cooks Illustrated books.

Paul Kaye | 2008-11-23 05:54:02 UTC

Bread has been my most recent challenge in the kitchen. I’m scared of baking as you can’t make adjustments along the way. Jeffrey Hamelman’s “Bread: A Baker’s Book of Techniques and Recipes” is a perfect introduction to the ingredients, techniques and science behind baking. As long as you keep good records of what you’ve done (I’m a scientist so lab-books are second nature), you can steadily improve over time. A month or so in and I’m making seriously good loaves every time.

Trig | 2008-11-23 09:56:46 UTC

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Hugh | 2008-11-23 12:01:03 UTC

This is awesome – thanks, everyone!

I’m interested to note that Julia Child gets referenced a lot, both here and elsewhere – time to pick up some of her books, for sure.

Cook’s Illustrated I’d not really heard of – I’ll check them out.

I’ve been getting curious about bread and breadmaking – I might well check the Jeffrey Hamelman out too, because it sounds awesome.

And yeah, I must get around to picking up the French Laundry cookbook.

Jens | 2008-11-23 20:17:39 UTC

These are books the at designed to teach you how to cook. These are the books that have done the most to help me become a better cook—-not that they have done so much.

I’m Just Here for the Food, by Alton Brown

This is a noteworthy book in that it sets out to teach you how to cook using a variety of techniques and offers some sample recipes for each technique. He shows you the basics of roasting, grilling, poaching, frying, etc. This is a fantastic book to read, easy to understand and fun. If I have a complaint about this book, it is that I don’t seem to have made use of what it has taught me very often.

The Professional Chef by the CIA (Culinary Institute of America)

This is an exhaustive tome that is the textbook used by some of the most talented and eduated chefs being created today. If you can master everything in this book, you would be ahead of 99.9% of people preparing food today. That being said, this is a dense tome that is designed to go along with their coursework, not so much a stand-alone text. It is also written by and for chefs, not home cooks. The quantities are often very large and it assumes that you are already fairly experienced.

How to Boil Water by Food Network Kitchens and Jennifer Darling

This book surprised me in how good a job it does at teaching someone who knows very very little about cooking how to prepare a nice variety of very useful dishes. This could almost be considered a recipe book, but I think it does a better job of teaching that providing recipes, so I put it here.

Cookwise by Shirley Corriher

This is an entry level food science book. It has lots of good recipes and explanations of the science behind each of them. If you want to know why a recipe went wrong and how to fix it, this is a great place to look. I don’t know of a more accessible book on the basic science of cooking (perhaps…I’m Just Here For the Food)

Alex | 2008-11-24 10:15:53 UTC

Anything by Herve This

Nick | 2008-11-26 18:43:41 UTC

I’m Just Here For More Food – Alton Brown

Like the first book, Alton Brown sets of on the basics – this time, of baking (on the cover, it says ingredients*mixing+heat=food!).

He goes over everything from the hardware to the wetware. Techniques, tips, recipes, and chemistry are all present in an excellent primer on baking in general.

As with everything Alton Brown does, every recipe is basically food from scratch. He doesn’t have you mill your own flour – yet – but it’s a near thing. It makes preparation longer, but the food is worth it.

Laura | 2008-11-26 19:40:39 UTC

I have no suggestion of cookbooks, but I do have a suggestion for an episode sure to impress viewers. I have but these two things to say: liquid nitrogen or dry ice and icecream!

pajh | 2008-11-26 20:02:28 UTC

@Laura: funny you should mention that… we’ve been talking about that ourselves already.

Malcolm Lambe | 2008-11-26 20:33:12 UTC

What you want is the 1969 classic by Craig Claiborne “A Kitchen Primer” (Penguin Books)- right up your alley. The blurb on the back says (in part) “Do you know the correct way to chop an onion? Can you produce a perfect fried egg? A surprising number of cooks are unable to do either.” This book is like “The Complete Idiots Guide to Cooking”. I still refer to it after 30 years of cooking. You can get it online here – http://www.bookfinder.com/dir/i/Craig_Claibornes_Kitchen_Primer/0394718542/

BTW it has a great chapter on soufflé making.

à bientôt, Malcolm Lambe, Paris.

Josh | 2008-11-26 21:37:34 UTC

I would have to agree with Jens and Nick, both of Alton Brown’s book, as well as his third book on cooking equipment, are very useful. If you are at all familiar with his show and like it / find it useful, you will also like the books.

Also of note would be “How to Cook Everything” and “How to Cook Everything Vegetarian” by Mark Bittman. Bittman is not a trained chef, just a home cook who has become very knowledgeable over time. I personally find this makes him very approachable and easy to understand. Both of these books are a little on the pricy side, but they are very extensive. They will pretty make tell you how to buy, store, and cook pretty much any ingredient you can think of. If I could have only one cookbook to reference, it would be one of these.

Jenna | 2008-11-27 07:34:18 UTC

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Hugh | 2008-11-27 11:21:56 UTC

Jenna – the point of the “Normal Person” series is to see whether an average person can cook the recipes we’re testing – hence the reason I was mostly watching and laughing at Johnnie, rather than cooking. Although it wasn’t obvious in the episode, I don’t really fit the “average person” criterion when it comes to food, as this blog post may indicate.

I’m a pretty good cook (link to an Egullet writeup of a 12-course tasting menu I cooked a little while ago) – but I’m not a formally trained chef, hence the question above. The CIA cookbook looks about the right level for me to learn from. It probably wasn’t sufficiently obvious in the Normal Person episode that I was just observing rather than actively cooking – sorry about that.

I’ve got the Hungry Scientist Cookbook, and I didn’t find it very helpful – no terribly original ideas, and only one thing that really sparked off foodie interest. Anything I missed?

Having said all that, thanks for the recommendation of Mark Bittman’s work – I’ll check it out!

Rob B | 2008-11-30 22:37:22 UTC

Hey Hugh, just caught up with this as have been away. Read all the answers & then reread your question. So, although the three tomes I dip in & out of frequently are probably worth a mention: Larousse Gastronomique, Margaret Costa’s Four Season Cookery & generally anything by Elizabeth David, especially “Spices, Salt & Aromatics in the English kitchen”, the main theme with each of these is actually less about recipes & more about taste.

Which is the crux to all cooking, regardless of standard. It is equally one of the hardest things to teach well, but essential as once you have a good idea what & how your finished dish will taste like, then its likely you’ll be able to identify & correct mistakes waay before they occur.

Hugh | 2008-12-01 11:20:07 UTC

Ooh, I’d not heard of that Elizabeth David – sounds fantastic.

There seems to be a fair amount of argument around Larousse – I think I’ll just have to aquire and see…


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