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5 Tips In Praise of the Electric KettleHugh
2010-08-09 16:19:00 UTC

It’s a source of amazement to me that when I visit the US, in particular, I don’t see electric kettles.

Of all my household gadgets, the humble electric kettle is certainly the most frequently used. More frequently than my sous-vide water bath, my Bamix mixer, even my (wonderful, wonderful) induction hob, the £10 kettle from Tesco is what gets me through the day.

And as a result of this, and of being, as we all know, an enormous geek, I’ve managed to run across a fair amount of useful information on the subject of water, heating of. So here it is, my ode to the humble but awesomely useful kettle.

Only a Tea Kettle should boil!

You don’t actually want to use boiling water straight out of the kettle most of the time. Instead, each type of beverage has its own preferred brewing temperature.

Black tea SHOULD be made with boiling water, yes. Indeed, if you don’t make it with just-boiled, 100 degree water, the extraction doesn’t work properly and it tastes like crap. Herbal teas – effective, ineffective, or just tasty – appear to mostly go the same way.

Green tea shouldn’t be let within a mile of boiling water, or you’ll overextract the tannin in the tea, of which there’s a lot more than in black tea. Green tea brewing times are complicated, complicated stuff, but the TL:DR summary for supermarket-quality tea is about 80 degrees Centigrade (180F – ish), for about 2 minutes.

If you pour boiling water straight out of your kettle onto your coffee, Steve from Has Bean Coffees will bury your house in used coffee grounds. Well, OK, he won’t. But you’ll make crap coffee. The temperature for coffee extraction is one of those frightningly complicated problems that causes any argument to end in graphs. However, for a French Press, which is probably what you’re using if you want water from an electric kettle, various sources specify anything between 89 and 93 degrees centigrade.

For both tea and coffee, remember that the temperature of the water changes when it hits a cold teapot or coffee pot! Preheat for, as the kids say, The Win.

Deoxygenation – the myth and the tests

Most coffee connosuiers would say that you shouldn’t leave water in the kettle once it’s boiled, if you want the best quality tea or coffee. Boiling the water drives off the dissolved oxygen, and that oxygen is important both for tea making and coffee. Allegedly.

Is this true? Well, there appears to be some truth in it, but it ain’t proven by any means. However, some testing over at CoffeeGeek seems to show that oxygenated water may change, and perhaps clarify, the taste of coffee. in addition, some hardcore coffee geeks are experimenting with post-brewing aeration of coffee, just as it’s done with wine. Interesting stuff, and look for a test on it here soon.

The coffee and tea extraction processes is terrifyingly complex, hence the uncertainty, involving at least 800 flavour compounds, according to Harold McGee. His book “On Food And Cooking” has nothing to say about freshly-brewed or otherwise water, but does mention that many waters aren’t ideal for tea or coffee – he recommends using Volvic mineral water.

Beware the “Water Heater”

Tefal’s Quick Cup electric kettle promises “Hot water in 3 seconds”, by heating water as it’s pumped rather than in a chamber like a kettle. It’s a neat idea, and only heating the water you need makes sense.

However, according to all reports, the darn thing doesn’t produce boiling water, just hot water, around 88 – 92 degrees centigrade. That’s arguably a little cool for coffee, great for green tea, and totally useless for black tea – and indeed, the Amazon review page is full of unhappy tea drinkers .

Caveat teadrinkor.

Rival hot water gadget the Eco-Kettle, by contrast, actually offers three temperature settings – 80 degrees, 90 degrees, and 100 degrees. That’s actually a damn fine idea, and might persuade me to buy one. Anyone know how accurate they are?

PID for Tea

This one’s more of an idea than a tip. There’s no reason you couldn’t take a PID temperature controller such as the one I originally used to build an improvised sous vide bath, and connect it to a cheap electric kettle. (Let’s face it, when you’re playing with the electricity supply, you don’t want to risk melting your sixty quid Dualit kettle.)

Why? Well, one of the major pains in the neck when brewing french-press coffee, in particular, is timing the grinding of the coffee to the heating of the water. The water, of course, hits 100 degrees, and then starts cooling down, and we want to catch it at about 94-95 degrees C (202F) in order to achieve optimum brewing temperature. However, we might well also be using a hand-grinding coffee grinder for the best grind, we don’t want to leave our coffee ground because the aromatics escape, and timing a hand-grind of 50 grams of coffee to 30 seconds after your kettle boils is… tricky.

(Oh, and the temperature drop is obviously dependent on the volume of liquid in the kettle. Basically we’re talking thermometers at dawn here.)

However, with a PID, there’s really no reason you couldn’t hold the temperature at 94 degrees Centigrade indefinitely, or at least for the 3 minutes it takes to frantically grind. Worth A Try. Another KKC test coming up, I think.

P.S. – did you realise it’s possible to buy a, wait for it, electric pink kettle ? Indeed, you can get a range of the damn things. Praise capitalism. Getting a yellow kettle , however, is significantly harder.

Paul | 2010-08-10 13:04:44 UTC

Just saw the KC feed get bolded by my feed reader. Welcome back to the world guys!
One of the most popular ways to drink coffee here in Israel is a bastardised version of Turkish/Greek/Arabic coffee. Rather than cook it in the proper vessel, we put the grounds in a glass and pour hot water onto them, as you would for instant coffee. You wait for the grounds to settle or/and get a textured first sip :-)
Anyway, my point is that, in this case, it’s important to use water poured the second the kettle has boiled. I don’t know why it doesn’t taste burnt (perhaps because the grounds are coarser than for filter or espresso) but it doesn’t. If the water is too cool the extraction is weak, the crema doesn’t form and the coffee tastes like old cigarettes.
On the other end of the scale, I’ve been using an Aeropress since my espresso machine died and, for that, the water is best at 80-85 degrees – no higher. For this I normally use coffee ground finer than for normal filter coffee. Perhaps this agrees with my grind-temperature hypothesis?

Hugh | 2010-08-10 13:22:34 UTC

Thanks! It’s fun to be back – handily my interest in writing about cooking again coincided with some new ideas on how to actually make the site sustainable. No promises on a new series or anything yet, but keep your eyes peeled.

I wonder if the Aeropress temperature is due to the sudden pressurisation? As I understand it, the Aero pushes the pressure to at least two or three atmospheres, so that could push the temperature up a degree or so.

The other way of making coffee is REALLY interesting, though. I think I’ll try that tonight. “Wierd and interesting coffee techniques” seem to be building up in my to-do list at the moment – have you seen Khymos’s “egg coffee”?

Matthieu Weber | 2010-08-12 08:02:42 UTC

Nice to read you alive and kicking :)

  • Only a Tea Kettle should boil!

Not even! I have read many times that black, wu long and pu er teas require water at 95 °C, not boiling. Low quality green tea taste terrible if the water is too hot (I use no more than 70-75 °C in that
case), while better green teas give good results at e.g., 85 °C.
The chosen water temperature depends also on the age of the leaves used for making the tea: older, tougher leaves used for wu long need hotter
water, young buds flushed in spring for producing green teas are much thinner and will infuse too fast in too hot water. Infusion time matters
of course, as well as the size of the leaves (crushed or whole).

  • Deoxygenation – the myth and the tests

I remember reading that oxygen escapes the water long before the boiling point. So when you see bubbles in your kettle, they are only steam
bubbles, and all the oxygen has gone already. I may remember wrong if course, or have been misinformed, but this is worth doing a double blind experiment.

  • Beware the “Water Heater”

Dunno about the Eco-Kettle (btw, this link on the blog is wrong), but I own a kettle with adjustable temperature (30-100 °C by 5 °C steps), and
if you fill the kettle to the max (2 L), the kettle shuts down at about the right temperature (give or take a few degrees). If you don’t fill it to the max, it will overshoot by up to 15 °C, depending on how little water there was in the kettle, because of the thermal inertia of the heating element, which provide residual heat to the water even though the power is off.

  • PID for Tea

I don’t know about coffee (I drink only tea), but at least for tea using a PID controller is only part of the problem (and akin to using a sledgehammer to kill a fly). When you pour the water into the teapot, it cools down a bit and when it reaches the teapot it cools down further (unless you pre-heated the pot at the right temperature). Finally, infusion is a process which takes into account the speed at which the water cools down, which depends on a lot of factors, especially the amount of water and the material the teapot is made of (some chinese tea masters use pure silver teapots because silver doesn’t absorb as much heat as e.g. clay). One interesing experiment I read about was to compare the infusions during 3 minutes of 2g of tea in a 20 cL pot against 20g of tea in a 200 cL pot: the infusion in the bigger pot was more bitter, because the large amount of water kept the temperature high
for a longer time, and the infusion process was different, allowing for more bitter-tasting tannins to be extracted.

Victor Wong | 2010-08-20 01:09:59 UTC

I use a Chef’s Choice wide-mouthed electric kettle, which is great for boiling eggs and heating broth.

When it comes to making stuff like tea or coffee, I would argue that the quality of the water you start with makes a much bigger difference than the temperature you use.

Hugh | 2010-08-23 12:10:32 UTC

Victor – you’re not wrong! I’m very lucky in that the quality of Edinburgh water is extremely high, with impurity levels 10 times lower than other parts of the country.

Otherwise, I’d definitely invest in a filter or even a supply of Volvic as Harold McGee recommends.

Having said that, I’ve noticed from tasting that the extraction temperature does make a HUGE difference, particularly for tea.

plumbing | 2011-04-22 08:41:39 UTC

There are times when having hot water at your fingertips is a must. Not just for making that odd cup of tea or instant hot chocolate but, also for those quick cups of soup and packets of instant oatmeal that college kids live on.

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Flower Light | 2011-11-02 05:54:15 UTC

Thank for your electric kettle knowledge.

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