| Why do we assume that you like to cook if you like to eat? | Hugh 2009-02-17 12:37:00 UTC |
It seems to me that a lot of our disfunctional food culture problems stem from one simple assumption: that if you love food, you’ll love cooking (and, arguably, vica versa). Jamie Oliver seems to believe that the only way to get anyone to eat healthily is to teach them to make (very long, complicated) recipes from scratch. UK and US foodie culture in general seem to hold that if you love food, you’ll automatically also love its manufacture. Which, on the face of it, is a very odd assumption. I love good furniture. I’m perfectly happy to spend £400 on an office chair if it’s the best available. But that doesn’t mean I’ve got any interest in engineering or upholstery. I know plenty of people who are very into their computer games who can’t program their way out of a paper bag, and wouldn’t know a spline from a NURB. There are thousands of wine buffs, but few of them own their own vineyard. And home-brewers are a very distinct beardy subsection of beer lovers. And indeed, the idea that you have to cook all the time to love food would seem very odd in many parts of the world. Take Singapore, for example, a country which is obsessed with food to a scary degree. My understanding is that very few Singaporeans cook for themselves on a day-by-day basis. Instead, they eat out – usually at mall food courts which serve food better than most UK restaurants for about £2 for a firey hot main meal. Likewise, my mother’s a very good cook and, whilst she’d probably deny it, a pretty keen foodie. But these days she lives in an apartment with a shonky electric cooker and about three pots. Why? Because in Luxembourg just about everyone who doesn’t have a family just eats out, most or all of the time, at pretty darn cheap and extremely high-quality restaurants. This seems to be the norm in most of the world. If you think of China you think of food stalls serving just-killed snake (OK, maybe that’s just me). Japan’s a total food culture, but that’s why they leave it up to the experts. I don’t know too much about African food culture, but I wouldn’t be surprised to hear that it’s very similar. But in the UK and also the US, we have the idea that if you don’t cook for yourself, you’re not interested in food. Now that’s just wierd. Ok, I happen to like both food and the process of making it – I enjoy learning about new techniques for flavour combination, I’ll happily sit there with a whisk for 10 minutes making exactly the right consistency of whipped egg, and I’ve painstakingly developed a reasonable repetoire of knowledge about the chemistry and physics of how raw food becomes a cooked meal. But I can’t see any reason why that’s necessarily the case for everyone who likes food. Why does liking the taste of a well-cooked steak mean you enjoy repetitively flipping something in a dangerously hot pan? Why does enjoying a salad mean you like memorising ratios for emulsions? Just because someone likes the taste of rice, why should they enjoy cleaning a pan dozens of times whilst they figure out the best way to cook the bloody stuff? There’s a lot of comment about the fact that the US, UK, and other similarly-encultured countries have an epidemic of obesity and unhealthy eating. Perhaps that’s because we refuse to give people who don’t actually enjoy cooking another healthy choice? Instead, we seem to say that if you want to eat well, you have to master a difficult, time-consuming and often tedious skill. Why isn’t Jamie Oliver complaining about the quality of shopping center food courts? I mean, after Singapore I wanted to bomb my local shopping center for the appalling, unapetising shit they’re serving. Why isn’t there a Government commission into producing really fuckin’ excellent microwavable meals? It’s not impossible. Why aren’t there grants for reasonably-priced restaurants? If you want people to eat well, it would make sense to put some money into giving them good food. And why do we, as foodies, persist in looking down our noses at anything that isn’t made from scratch? Why doesn’t anyone review ready meals? Let’s face it, the quality level of any product is partially determined by the feedback they get. If there was a Michelin equivalent for takeaways, you’d better believe there would be some shit-hot chippies out there. Where’s the effort toward criticising, improving, developing anything that isn’t home-cooking or an expensive restaurant? Even when some shops, like Marks and Spencers, do make an effort to produce good pre-prepared meals, we tend to treat them as things to be ashamed of eating. It just doesn’t make any sense to me. Sure, a lot of people enjoy cooking and enjoy eating, and that’s great. But why do we persist in yoking the two together? Isn’t that unfair to people who just want to have something good to eat? | |
| Louise Dennis | 2009-02-17 13:50:23 UTC Conversely my daughter is considerably more interested in cooking than in eating. In fact we have a “Cook’s privilege” rule – you are not obliged to eat anything you have helped produce. | |
| Mark Bolton | 2009-02-17 14:51:43 UTC Hugh – an interesting piece there. Your position is a good one. Viewed from Tokyo there is an interesting contrast. Relatively cheap cooked lunches are common, it is a lot easier to eat well in my opinion as a result. This, together with expectations of high standards and sufficient turnover, means only places selling reasonable food survive. So here, I don’t think there is a lot of need to cook to enjoy good food. At dinner time, it is more challenging as prices soar. | |
| Lisa | 2009-02-17 15:25:17 UTC I see Mark’s already commented. The only thing I would add is that it’s often cheaper to eat out in Tokyo that to cook at home, (certainly to cook when you are buying raw ingredients in central Tokyo) and what I recommend for visitors on a budget (when I am not cooking for them) is lunch specials and combini salads in the evening, if you want to be healthy. Ramen and tonkatsu are cheaper, in general, but I don’t know that you would want to do either all the time. | |
| Someone | 2009-02-17 15:37:08 UTC I am more interested in the Home Cooking Culture of China. Since I don’t think they always eat out. Cheap Food Stalls can’t be everywhere, can they? Know any good Books on the topic? | |
| Fhtagn | 2009-02-17 15:55:54 UTC Funny you should mention giving Michelin-alikes to take-aways – there is precedent in Scotland. http://www.tobermoryboatcharters.co.uk/van.htm That said, I agree pretty much with your whole point. Improving cheap food quality would do a lot more for health and general wellbeing (after all, who doesn’t feel better after a nice meal) than any quantity of preaching, and time is valuable. | |
| Sarah | 2009-02-17 17:12:02 UTC Excellent point. I think unfortunately there’s a demand for cheap, crap food (which there probably isn’t in Singapore). A lot of people just don’t care about food. There could well be an unmet demand for cheap, good food though. In Edinburgh, the mosque kitchen serves fantastic curries and rice really cheaply, and is always packed. Mostly with students. I guess most people who want good food and can’t afford to go to the “nice” restaurants somehow learn the skills to cook it for themselves. But as you say, that doesn’t mean they really like cooking. Even those of us that do, wouldn’t mind the odd night off. | |
| B.Dewhirst | 2009-02-17 18:04:29 UTC In the Boston, MA, area there is a PBS (BBC-equivalent, sort of) has a program called the Phantom Chef. They do reviews of places that ordinary people eat, in addition to fancier stuff, and also have reviews on their website. (The titular phantom is a Stig-equivalent— an unknown gastronomic investigator against which all comers are judged.) | |
| Jeremy | 2009-02-17 18:40:08 UTC first its Non Uniform Rational B Spline. NURBS is both singular and plural. second, its capitalism. MC Donald’s and most national chain restaurants prefer to maintain consistency across the entire country and/ or continent rather than have punctuated quality. if you have a thousand different suppliers across a region you need to maintain the lowest common denominator of quality year after year. yes they could use locally sourced, top quality, seasonal ingredients, without any added expense to any given franchise. but, this would be a nightmare for management, legal, and quality control departments. this can be done in the UK or the US or France or Germany but not as easily an in singapore. it is nearly impossible to do it in all. | |
| Dougal Stanton | 2009-02-17 18:49:43 UTC 1. Besides your say-so, do you have any evidence that people in the UK and US eat so differently from the rest of the (developed) world? 2. The notion that eating out is the norm and that having the facilities and ability to cook for oneself should be for the privileged few is a seriously screw logic. 3. No amount of uninterest in food can be swept under the carpet by buying it in. If people don’t care enough to cook their own they certainly don’t care enough to pay for others to cook it. | |
| SpudTater | 2009-02-17 20:38:01 UTC Very good points. A quick visit to Europe is all that it takes to see that while our restaurants are better for convenience, health doesn’t seem to even come into it over here. I think there’s a certain fatalism when it comes to eating out over here. We assume that outside food is a priori unhealthy, therefore we don’t seem to even try to choose healthier choices. And because of supply and demand, the food we are presented with gets on average unhealthier. | |
| Sunny Kalsi | 2009-02-18 00:40:21 UTC One of the issues in Oz appears to be that rent in a food court is obscenely expensive. In order to turn a profit, it’s often a requirement to have a high turnover or expensive food, or, food that stores really well. As a guy who lives with a single flatmate, I’ve found that cooking the food isn’t a problem, it’s finding a way to keep the food there so it doesn’t go off. I imagine similar things are true of shops, even with the greater turnover. The solution is to have things so that they are eminently more storable, which whittles down the things you can put in your meal, and it appears that more storable stuff is less healthy for you (you may want to correct me there). Another issue appears to be the whole “buy in bulk” thing, where you can buy a small for $2, or for $2.50 you can buy the mega-large, which is three times as much. It’s ridiculous pricing, but it also means people are encouraged to eat greater portions. That, coupled with habits of cleaning your plate means that people, over time, become fatter. | |
| Matthieu Weber | 2009-02-18 07:55:25 UTC In my understanding, and in my very arguable opinion, obesity has several factors, and not all of them are directly related to food. 1. Money. When you are constantly exposed to marketing trying to sell you this useless thing (think electronic gadget) and that useless service (think mobile phone), if you give in, you are left with less money at the end of the month. And the food budget is traditionaly the one that is the most compressible, therefore you are going to save on the food. Even if you don’t give in to marketing, you may still be poor, and when your lodging’s rent increases, you are going to compress the food budget. Whichever path you choose, you are therefore forced to buy the cheapest foods, which are made mainly of sugar and hydrogenated fat (with flavourings and artificial colours). 1b. Money. The food industry is an industry, therefore its purpose is to make money, by whatever mean necessary. This means making quick and bland food, and flavouring it as much as necessary to sell it, using mainly sugar (we primates are naturally attracted to sugar), salt (for some reason, anything salty enough seems good) and fat (because flavours dissolve better in fat than in water, and a fatty texture is more pleasant), and overloaded with flavourings (it is fashionable to overload your senses: loud music, loud food, loud colors). Since these kinds of products sell well and make a huge profit, why bother offering the consumers anything else? 2. Time. When you need to spend two hours a day in transportation just to go from home to school/work and back, you don’t necessarily find the time, or even just the energy for cooking at the end of the day, especially if you have kids to take care of. Therefore you go for the pre-made food which, in most cases, is made of cheap products (sugar and hydrogenated fat (with flavourings and artificial colours)), and sold at a premium. 3. Education. Do parents still educate their children in the field of house care, such as cooking, repairing small things, sewing and knitting? The consumer society has led us to believe that you can get any product or service from the industry and that you don’t need to learn the basic skills anymore. So why bother making you own meals, cloths or repair an almost working appliance you can simply throw away and replace with a new one? Why bother cooking when you can buy ready-made food? 4. Individuality. There has been a few years back a surprising study about European’s eating habits. Not about what they ate, but about how they did it. One of the result of the study was that in France, which seems to have the lowest obesity rate in the world after Japan, half of the population is seated at a table for lunch at the same time (around 12.30). In the UK, this peak of “people eating at the same time” happens at 13.20 but concerns only 17% of the population. One of the conclusions of the study was that when people are eating together (like in France), they eat less, not daring to stuff themselves under the scrutiny of their tablemates, leading to less obesity. This conclusion is, I agree, quite arguable, but I remember reading many times that eating at random times and alone is one of the factors of obesity. As a father and a Frenchman, I consider that meals should be taken as often as possible together, around the same table, and without TV (which breaks the "togetherness"). Funily (and vaguely relevant), american kids (a study again) who watch less TV than others are less obsese; not because of getting more exercise, but because they eat less crisps and sodas. Now, cooking is the opposite of individuality: when you are alone and cook for yourself, you do so probably because you (hope you are going to) enjoy eating what you cook. But when you cook for a group (family, friends, whatever), you do so because you want to give them something that tastes good, something they will enjoy. As Hervé This said hundreds of times, “cooking is love, art and technique”. | |
| Jonas | 2009-02-18 10:21:58 UTC I absolutely agree with you. I, for example, love eating, but am a terrible cook. I’m terrified of anything hot (especially oil) and seemingly lose any sense of coordination the moment I have a pan in front of me. Plus, I really can’t handle raw meat. I’m happy to chop and cut and prepare stuff for my girlfriend (who is an excellent cook), and I’m open to all sorts of culinary directions, but I’m quite simply terrible at the process of cooking. (And please don’t tell me it’s just a matter of experience. I cooked for myself for years. It’s not laziness, either. It’s fear.) And there are people who are even worse. So, yes, cheap and healthy pre-cooked meals and take-out would be great. But, as another person already commented, it’s capitalism. The driving force behind everything is profit – and you get higher profits if you use bad materials. To change this you would need government intervention, and we all know that Every Time The Government Intervenes The Invisible Hand Kills A Puppy. | |
| Hugh | 2009-02-18 12:02:16 UTC Interesting discussion! Louise – I almost fall into the same camp. I really enjoy eating – but I also really enjoy cooking, to the extent that I’d be quite happy to just cook for other people and not sit down with them to eat, sometimes. Someone – There are a lot of good introductions to Chinese cooking. Try the Egullet Chinese Cooking forum – http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showforum=71 B.Dewhirst – great idea! I’ve been considering how to get a Stig-type character into the show – might steal that… Sunny – interesting. That’s really bad – having super-high rents in places that you need to feed your population! It’ll be some kind of complex balance that’s causing that, I guess. Jeremy – China’s a pretty big country :) So is Japan. And France does have a much better range of eat-out options, as does Spain. Dougal – No, I’ve got no evidence beyond my own travels and the observations of other people. However, the same is true of most cultural comment. Whilst a massive food hall serving fantastic food and stuffed full, with another one two blocks away, and so on, isn’t a scientific study, it’s sufficient evidence to draw some conclusions from. “If people don’t care enough to cook their own they certainly don’t care enough to pay for others to cook it.” – Evidence? I don’t care enough about chairs to make my own furniture, but I do care enough to buy good chairs. “The notion that eating out is the norm … is a seriously screw logic.” – why? Matthieu – really good comments! Don’t have much to add there, aside from the fact that once again, it all seems to come back to crappy ready food. Jonas – Surely the “all intervention is Evil” crowd have shut up at least a little recently… | |
| Dougal Stanton | 2009-02-18 17:20:41 UTC I’ve got no evidence beyond my own travels and the observations of other people. Well that would seem to be the first place to start, wouldn’t it? According to this site (survey methods unknown, I’m not paying 250 quid for a blog comment thanks) there were 8.726 billion meals served in the UK in 2007. That works out about 143 meals per person per year in that year (but that includes everyone which is not a very valid approach). How does this compare to the US, France, Japan, etc? I don’t care enough about chairs to make my own furniture, but I do care enough to buy good chairs. I take it you buy a new set of furniture three times a day? I suppose it brings an extra depth to the saying “chewing on the furniture”. Chairs and food are so obviously in different categories of item that they are not in the least comparable. Cooking is a service. It’s called the food service industry, after all. Most people (in my experience) cook their own food, wash their own clothes and drive their own cars. It is possible to get someone to cook for you, but it’s a treat. Likewise getting someone to do your laundry or drive you somewhere. Cooking my own food doesn’t require growing/rearing it first; and washing my clothes doesn’t require making them. So while I haven’t made my own furniture I don’t think this is at all relevant. But, before we got onto this strange furniture tangent, my point was that people can’t be made to care about food by making it cheap. People will buy whatever is suitable for their budget regardless of the quality. There are a wide variety of foods available at equivalent price but the ones with the marketing budget are popular “The notion that eating out is the norm and that having the facilities and ability to cook for oneself should be for the privileged few is a seriously screw logic.” Because having the money to pay someone else to perform services for you is a privilege? | |
| Jeremy | 2009-02-18 19:44:59 UTC allow me to clarify the point I was making. the bigger the area and larger the number of people you are trying to serve the more difficult it is to maintain consistency. Asian food in general tends to lend itself to this. another point to add to this is that franchises need to suit the tastes of as many customers as possible. with a larger area this becomes exponentially more difficult to do. I am sorry to say this but the vast majority of UK/US pallets want chicken or beef with salt, grease, and HFCS. in fact if you add too much flavor they simply wont want it. people like us are a slim minority here. | |
| Ben Sanders | 2009-02-19 10:57:55 UTC A friend of mine lived in India for a while, and claimed that it was cheaper to eat out, as a single person, than to buy ingredints to cook with. Presumably this was a factor of bulk discounts (not available to someone cooking for one person) plus low wage requirements and low land overheads. | |
| Hugh | 2009-02-19 11:22:24 UTC Dougal - You’re absolutely right, both of our arguments are currently coming from anecdotal evidence only. Feel free to put up more statistics if you find them, and I’ll do the same if I have time. "Most people (in my experience) cook their own food, wash their own clothes and drive their own cars. It is possible to get someone to cook for you, but it’s a treat. " Given the other comments on this thread, that seems like a very UK-centric statement. Most of the world doesn’t even own a car (including me – I get driven around by bus, train and plane drivers). We have people attesting that in Singapore, Japan, India and Europe it’s cheaper to eat out than dine in, which to my mind implies that is isn’t, in fact, a “treat” the world over. And washing clothes isn’t a good comparison – assuming you have a washing machine, it requires zero skill and two minutes’ effort a week, and I’m sure considerably more people would cook for themselves if that was the case for cooking. (If you don’t have a washing machine it’s a different argument, of course, but I’m assuming most of the posters here do or at least have access to one.) “There are a wide variety of foods available at equivalent price but the ones with the marketing budget are popular – quality of food has nothing to do with it.” Speaking as someone who does a lot of marketing, I can tell you that it isn’t nearly as simple as “throw money and people will buy product”. Otherwise the Microsoft Zune would be doing a lot better. There are are plenty of food shops with a minimal or zero marketing budget – farm shops, small delis, etc – that are doing fine. It’s more complex than “Everyone’s an idiot about food except for us elite few”, and whilst I may be misinterpreting, to me that seems to be what you’re saying. | |
| Dougal Stanton | 2009-02-19 16:10:00 UTC Most of the world doesn’t even own a car (including me – I get driven around by bus, train and plane drivers). Well, this is very true, but I was drawing from the set of car owners for the sake of the comparison. I could include breatharians in my argument, but that would just be for comedy’s sake. ;-) I also don’t own a car, but it’s neither here nor there. Among people who have the choice, most people don’t opt for the taxi without good reason (like wanting to go out on the piss). The thing about washing machines is that… you don’t need one to do your own washing! There’s these things called laundrettes… We have people attesting that in Singapore, Japan, India and Europe it’s cheaper to eat out than dine in, which to my mind implies that is isn’t, in fact, a “treat” the world over. I know that it’s definitely cheaper to eat in Italy than here, but then everything else is cheaper too so there ain’t much comparison to be made from anecdote. Yet there’s still a massive culture of home cooking. I don’t think it’s as simple as “if restaurants were cheaper we’d all eat well”. It’s more complex than “Everyone’s an idiot about food except for us elite few”, and whilst I may be misinterpreting, to me that seems to be what you’re saying. I think that was Jeremy’s line… | |
| Hugh | 2009-02-20 11:17:18 UTC "I don’t think it’s as simple as “if restaurants were cheaper we’d all eat well”. That’s definitely true. It’s a continuum. | |
| Duncan | 2009-04-11 00:13:18 UTC I’d just like to poke my head in as a home-brewer who doesn’t drink beer. Or wine. Or pretty much any other fermented beverage. I got into brewing because it’s an interesting process to watch, and it gives me something to serve and another topic of conversation to bore people with. |
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