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Where are the recipes?Hugh
2008-10-01 16:39:00 UTC

So, the first question I would ask, were I arriving at this site for the first time, would be “Damn. Why is it orange?”

And my reply, naturally, would be “Shut up, we like it.”

My second question, though, would probably be “So where are the recipes?”. And that merits a bit more thought.

See, we all love cookery shows. We love the ideas, we love the recipes, we love Rick Stein’s little dog. But, frankly, we hardly ever use any of the ideas in the bloody things.

It’s the same with cookbooks. Studies, from Actual Universities, have shown that people cook, on average, two recipes from any one cookbook. Frankly, that’s a total disaster – but it’s not very surprising. Most cookbooks just present an endless list of dishes, along with lots of subliminal messages about upper-middle-class living. Great to read through and imagine living Jamie’s or Nigella’s lifestyle, perhaps (a truly frightening thought), but not much use for the actual, you know, cooking.

Or to put it another way: 99% of all media about cooking is currently shit.

It gets even worse if you’re not a foodie to begin with. I’ve heard from friends of mine who don’t have home-made temperature controllers living in their kitchen that just looking at your average cookbook puts them off the idea of cooking. It all looks so complicated, and everyone portrayed in cookbooks and cooking shows are just so damn good at it. And then there’s the current fetish for not-so-subliminal messages that real cooks use organic, free-range, heritage, locally-sourced. I’ve seen plenty of shows that basically imply that if you didn’t know the name of the pig whose bacon you plan to cook, you should just fuck off to McDonalds, you slob.

And all of that really annoys the hell out of me. These things should be written to be used, dammit. If I want porn I’ll use Google. I don’t need to pretend that I’m buying a practical book when I’m actually just going for a journey through poorly-thought-out middle-class aspirations.

There are exceptions, of course. Heston Blumenthal’s “Perfect” books are fantastic, because he explains the techniques he uses in detail. But even there, I don’t cook an eight-hour Perfect Bolognaise too often.

No, the most helpful cookbooks I’ve found are the ones that don’t have recipes in – just information. Don’t Sweat The Aubergine, Molecular Gastronomy, and of course On Food And Cooking, the single book that I consult when I’m cooking just about anything. There’s no recipes in there, no inflexible lists of ingredients with no background and no explanation (half the time, of course, there’s no explanation because the writer doesn’t know how or why the recipe works, and may have never even thought to ask the question.). There’s just information. What eggs are made of, what their reactions are with various other foodstuffs, how they can be used to make meringues, sauces, emulsions. What temperatures cause chemical changes in food, and thus how you can design the taste of your meal. What properties a sauce should have to soften meat.

That’s a bloody useful book. And that’s why we don’t have a single recipe in this season of Kamikaze Cookery. We’re never going to tell you to “just whack a bit of basil in” then prepare fifty-seven ingredients in the time it takes you to make a cup of tea. We want to give you useful information that’ll help you make your own recipes, ‘cos that’s actually useful.

Also, we’re going to swear a lot, burn things, and take the piss out of Jamie Oliver.

Alison Rowan | 2008-10-03 11:18:53 UTC

The only recipe book I love and have cooked loads of things from is Katherine Whitehorn’s Cooking in a Bedsitter, which I used to give copies to everyone I know who couldn’t cook.

I also love Fat Man in the Kitchen, but that’s cos it’s funny and fascinating, and I think I’ve cooked, er, almost exactly two things from it. So yeah…

Hugh | 2008-10-03 11:31:10 UTC

Ah, yeah, I’ve heard a few people rave about that. It’s out of print these days, I think, which is a real pity.

It’s true in general that there are a few really great “introduction to cooking” books out there, actually. I believe that Delia Smith’s “How To Cook” is actually as good as it’s meant to be, too.

Hmm – maybe we need to come up with a list of Cookbooks Actually Worth The Time. Any other suggestions?

Anthony Bailey | 2008-10-03 23:09:12 UTC

Perhaps it is ironic given that her later books do tend to appear to be glossy coffee magazine material, but I’m reliably informed that Nigella Lawson’s earlier “How To Eat” is a very good example of a cook book that’s about a lot more than recipes.

Not the party line around here, I know, but cooking isn’t all science. There’s plenty of art (both aesthetics and craft) and philosophy and politics involved in food too.

Hugh | 2008-10-04 10:28:07 UTC

I completely agree. The wonderful thing about food, like programming or filmmaking, is that it’s a blend between art and science. Science can tell you how to achieve the results you want, and it can tell you how to improve the taste of your meal, but it doesn’t do the creativity for you. And yes, aesthetics are a huge part of cooking, particularly what Alex would refer to as “fancy stuff”.

I haven’t read “How to Eat”, I don’t think. I’ll pick it up.

Steve | 2008-10-04 12:51:25 UTC

I haven’t seen my segment, but I remember saying some mean things about Jamie Oliver. The thing is, his food is good, he’s working hard at improving the eating habits of a country (and in doing so is making a fantastic social documentary in Ministry of Food). I respect what he’s doing, but he does come off as a pratt a lot of the time.

Chris Cooke | 2008-10-09 22:22:23 UTC

Yes, Cooking in a Bedsitter is great; you can find it easily enough in second hand bookshops. I’ve also given it to friends who can’t cook!

Apart from that, the most useful cookbooks I’ve got in terms of recipes are also the very least glamorous. One is the Hamlyn All Colour Book Of Indian Cookery – packed full of excellent fresh spicy taste sensations, just wonderful – and the other is Home Recipes With Be-Ro Flour – scones, crumpets and pancakes galore.

Oh, also, my partner’s Mum bequeathed to us Molly Weir’s Recipes. Yes, laugh if you like, but it is absolutely excellent for traditional Scots cooking, loads of good stuff in there, as Molly learnt it from her Mum.

So, the less glamorous and shiny, the better.

Other cookbooks are great for reading – Elizabeth David, Claudia Roden, Jane Grigson – but I can’t say I’ve tried many of their recipes really.

SteveT | 2008-11-28 22:20:37 UTC

It may be a book, with recipes, by a “celebrity chef”, but I quite like Nigel Slater’s “Appetite”, for a book with a few basic techniques, a few general ideas, and some suggestions on things to try, how to tinker, etc. I also quite like many of Mr Slater’s other books because they are fairly simple and straightforward, and appeal to my “just got home from work, want something that’s nice, but doesn’t take all day”.

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s Meat book is quite an interesting read, and I’ve used a fair few of the recipes as bases for stuff I’ve made.

I still pick up my battered copy of Delia Smith’s complete cookery course when I want to cook something that my mum used to make.

Probably the most useless, from a practical point of view, cookery book I own is Escoffier’s art of modern cooking. Bits of it are quite interesting, but I’m unlikely to be making 15 litres of veal stock any time soon, and my local Sainsbury’s doesn’t sell ortolan.

Hugh | 2008-11-29 11:36:09 UTC

Yeah, Appetite is fantastic – as is Real Fast Food, Real Food, and The 30-Minute Cook (I’m a fan too, can you tell?).

I don’t count Nigel Slater as a “Sleb Chef”. He doesn’t run a restaurant, he doesn’t have a TV series, and he doesn’t have 25 million cookbooks out, just a few very good ones. He’s awesome.

Having said that, I did feel that The Kitchen Diaries was getting a bit into “wanker” territory. What did you think?

SteveT | 2008-11-29 13:42:20 UTC

The Kitchen Diaries was actually the first book of his that I read, when I spotted it in Waterstones for 7 quid, and looking like it was quite nice. It is a bit wanky, compared to his other books, but I really like his writing style, and it still had the practical simplicity that I like. I’ve made a few things from it, and still pick it up now and again when I could do with a bit of inspiration.

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